
If you've patched the same crack twice and it keeps coming back, the patch isn't the problem — the cause is. We diagnose what's actually moving (settlement, seasonal wood movement, old tape failure) and repair it with the right method so it doesn't return in a year.
Here's exactly what happens when you hire us for drywall crack repair.
Not all cracks are equal. Hairline seasonal cracks need reinforcement. Tape failures need the old tape removed. Settlement cracks may need a structural consult before cosmetic repair. We identify which you have.
Wide diagonal cracks, stair-step patterns, cracks that grew rapidly — these can indicate foundation or framing issues. We're drywall specialists, not engineers, so if we see red flags we'll tell you to get a structural opinion before we patch over it.
V-groove the crack to give mud something to grab, clean out loose drywall and old paint, and remove any failed tape. Patching over loose edges is why repairs fail.
Mesh tape for most seasonal cracks — it flexes slightly. Paper tape for seam failures. The goal is a reinforced bridge across the crack so future movement doesn't telegraph through.
Three coats of mud, each wider than the last, sanded smooth between. A proper crack repair is usually 8-12 inches wide — much wider than people expect — because that's what makes it invisible.
Match the existing wall texture, prime the repair, and touch up paint if you have it. Done right, you won't find the crack even if you're looking for it.
Usually because the original repair wasn't reinforced. Filling a crack with spackle or mud alone doesn't work if there's any seasonal movement — the filler cracks the first winter. A proper repair uses mesh or paper tape to bridge the crack, then feathers mud out wide enough to hide the reinforcement. That's what stops the return.
Most hairline cracks (especially at corners of door and window frames) are cosmetic and caused by seasonal humidity changes. Red flags for structural concerns: wide cracks (more than about 1/4 inch), diagonal cracks running through corners, stair-step cracks in block or concrete walls, cracks that grew rapidly, or cracks with horizontal displacement (one side sticks out). If we see any of those, we'll recommend a structural engineer before we patch.
Small cracks start at $250. A typical repair of one or two cracks in a room is $250-$450. Multiple cracks or longer runs (full ceiling-to-wall cracks across a room) typically $500-$800. We quote the firm price after seeing the cracks in person or from photos — quotes are free.
Yes. Plaster cracks are different than drywall cracks — plaster is harder, more brittle, and can be loose in sections around the crack. We carefully stabilize loose plaster, bridge the crack with mesh, and use setting-type compound that matches plaster hardness. Older Burlington and Hamilton homes with plaster walls are where we do a lot of this work.
Most single-room crack repairs are a one-day job, with paint touch-up day 1 or day 2 depending on how much blending is needed. Mud needs dry time between coats so we can't rush it, but we work efficiently — usually 3-5 hours on site plus a short return visit for paint if you want.
No — the whole point is making it disappear. The feathered mud extends 4-6 inches past the crack on each side, so the repair blends gradually into the original wall. Combined with texture matching and paint touch-up, a proper crack repair is invisible in normal lighting.
Usually not. If you have the original paint, we can touch up the repair area only and it'll blend. Without original paint, matched paint usually works for flat finishes. If you have eggshell or satin and no original paint, full-wall repainting may be needed for a perfect match — we'll tell you honestly before starting.
We provide drywall crack repair throughout Burlington, Oakville, Milton, Hamilton, Mississauga, and Waterdown. Pick your city for local details.